Earlier this month, Jeff at Beervana wrote an article about the “Novelty Curve” of craft beer. I was thinking about this on Saturday while at a cooler filled with winter seasonals and limited releases. The brew of focus in Jeff’s article was BridgePort’s IPA; a beer that I enjoy far too infrequently. As I stood there pondering my choices, I tried to remember the last time I took home anything from BridgePort that wasn’t a Big Brews. This took me all the way back to the last Super Bowl. My wife picked up a case of Beer Town Brown during half time; both our living room and the market had ran out of Buzzsaw. As my thought train kept rollin’, I realized that it had been equally as long since I had them on tap. With Ninkasi achieving complete market saturation in Eugene, it’s hard to find a bar serving an IPA other than Total Domination. I decided to go against the “Novelty Curve” and pick up a classic to review.
First off, BridgePort’s IPA is fairly tame when compared to it’s Northwest brethren. At 5.5% ABV and 50 IBUs, it seems stuck in the past; stubbornly refusing to conform to the shock and awe world of IPAs where 10% ABV is common, triple digit IBUs are no longer taboo and the “I” is quickly transitioning from “India” to “Imperial.” Still, it’s Oregon’s best selling IPA, so the wizards at BridgePort must be doing something right.
Upon pouring, you can see the first thing that separates BridgePort’s offering from the rest of the pack. The beer is hazy gold with a good amount of particulates. Streams of tiny bubbles rise up from the sediment in the bottom of the glass. Yes, there is sediment. BridgePort’s beer is bottle conditioned; a rarity among sub $8.00 six packs and approaching unheard of for an American IPA. The in-bottle fermentation gives the ale a natural carbonation that culminates in a dense foamy white head.
The IPA smells of floral and citrus hop. There are also hints of lemon and “bready” yeast. The aromas all feel purposely subtle; a refreshing alternative to the grapefruit and pine bombs that are other Northwest IPAs.
While the smell and appearance are both very pleasing, the taste is what makes this beer a classic. The malts come out first and impart a light sweetness. This is quickly followed by the bitter taste of citrus hops. The yeast makes a quick appearance in the middle, breaking the bitterness enough to let the lemon come through. The citrus and yeast fade, leaving a dry bitter finish. Tight carbonation keeps the medium body feeling creamy, from start to finish.
BridgePort’s IPA continues to be one of the most finely balance beers I have ever drank. It maintains a solid malt base for the hops to build upon, instead of gambling it away for a completely hop dominated taste.
If BridgePort’s IPA could embody a person, it would be an older gentleman; occupying the otherwise empty corner of a pub. Well traveled and well spoken; he has wisdom to share, but does not judge when you refuse it. He understands the allure of a younger, more boisterous crowd, but is also keenly aware that without substance and character how easily one becomes irrelevant. He is in it for the long haul; a heavy weight that would rather go twelve rounds than deliver a knockout blow in the first. He is comfortable, reliable, welcoming. He is timeless. Solid A.
Cheers!
Kevin